Tag Archive for California Zephyr

Grand Genealogy Journey: Sightseeing Enroute to Salt Lake City

After leaving Elko, Nevada, at eleven minutes after 10:00 p.m. Pacific Time, the California Zephyr continues east on its way to Salt Lake City. The route of the Zephyr through eastern Nevada and Utah mainly runs adjacent to Interstate 80, at least to near Wells, Nevada. The tracks are basically in same place as were the original road of the Transcontinental Railroad, with some deviations. Since this portion of the trip is entirely in the dark, with no scheduled stops, there’s nothing much to be seen. In fact, however, this segment covers some of the most interesting and historic terrain in the nation.

Great Basin Map

The Great Basin -- Courtesy U.S. Dept of Interior, National Park Service

We’re in the eastern half of the Great Basin, a huge watershed covering more than 200,000 square miles of the western United States and northern Mexico. Although the Basin includes rivers (e.g., the Colorado River) lakes (e.g., Lake Tahoe), and mountains (e.g., the Sierra Nevada) a large part of it is desert. But before this area became desert, much of eastern Nevada and western Utah was submerged beneath the prehistoric Lake Bonneville. This water body, which existed between 32,000 and 14, 000 years ago, covered about 20,000 square miles (or about 10% of the Great Basin). It was 1,000 feet deep. The lake overflowed about 14,000 years ago, leaving several remnants, such as the Great Salt Lake.

Bonneville Salt Flats

The Bonneville Salt Flats -- Courtesy U.S. Dept of Interior, Bureau of Land Management

One of the most picturesque areas once under Lake Bonneville is the Bonneville Salt Flats.   Familiar to many people from movies and car commercials, the Flats have been the site of land speed trials. In 1935, Briton Malcolm Campbell first broke the 300-mph barrier at Bonneville. By 1964, after several attempts, Craig Breedlove, driving the turbojet-powered  Spirit of America, passed 600 mph at Bonneville. The current land speed record over a 1 mile course,  a supersonic 763 mph, is held by Andy Green of the UK.  He drove the twin turbofan ThrustSSC to the mark in Nevada’s Black Rock Desert on October 15, 1997. [In 2003, an Air Force rocket sled travelled a three-mile railed course at 6,416 mph (Mach 8.3; hypersonic) in the Tularosa Basin in New Mexico. It was unmanned.]

The California Zephyr, as mentioned, generally follows the route of I-80 thr0ugh Nevada and Utah. Before the highway was I-80, it was the now-historic US 40, which originally ran from Atlantic City, New Jersey to San Francisco. Even earlier, however, the same general route was used by the Pony Express during its brief lifetime (1860-61).

Pony Express Map

Territory of the Pony Express -- Courtesy Library of Congress

The Pony Express ran between St Joseph, Missouri, and Sacramento. With riders switching to fresh horses at stations along the route  The Express could get a letter from coast to coast in about ten days.  The success of the Pony Express was in part its undoing.  Its speed and efficiency often was a conversation starter about a transcontinental railroad.

The Salt Flats present an eerie image in the daylight; omnipresent mirages seem to want to tell a story that they know.  In the dark of night, as the eastbound California Zephyr passes by, the scene is spectral.

Another sight we miss in the darkness is Promontory Summit, Utah.  This is the place where, on May 15, 1869, a golden spike was driven to link the Central Pacific Railroad and the Union Pacific Railroad, thus completing the western portion of a transcontinental rail system. Actually, we wouldn’t be able to see the site even in daylight, since the rail route was reconstructed in 1904 to bypass Promontory.

Golden Spike

The Last Spike is driven at Promontory Summit, Utah, to link the Central Pacific Railroad from Sacramento to the Union Pacific from Omaha.

The California Zephyr, eastbound,  arrives in Salt Lake City at 3:45 a.m. Mountain Time.

Grand Genealogy Journey: Aboard the California Zephyr

California Zephyr

The California Zephyr arrives at Galesburg, Illinois

Amtrak’s California Zephyr runs between Emeryville, California (near Oakland), and Chicago, Illinois. The present Zephyr is the latest incarnation of a venerable train that began service in 1949, as the Golden Age of Trains was about to begin its decline.

The route of the Zephyr is one of the longest operated by Amtrak. The original Zephyr operated on the tracks and stock of three different companies, the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, the Denver & Rio Grande Western, and the Western Pacific. The present day route varies a bit from the original, but it still remains one of the most scenic passenger rail routes in America.

Our virtual journey will take us from Sacramento to Salt Lake City aboard the Zephyr. The train leaves from Emeryville, 75 miles southwest of Sacramento, each morning at 9:50 am and arrives at the historic Sacramento Valley Station two hours later. It will have made stops in Martinez and Davis. Also boarding the train with us in Sacramento are several volunteer docents from the California State Railroad Museum will narrate and comment on the portion of the trip between Sacramento and Reno. This five hour trek over the Sierra Nevada is one of the most scenic parts of the Zephyr’s route.

We’re basically following the route that Theodore Judah had laid out for the Central Pacific railroad. It winds through the northern portion of California’s Gold Country in Placer and Nevada counties. A little over an hour from Sacramento, the train stops at Colfax. a picturesque town of about 1,500, settled originally in the Gold Rush days.  The Railroad Museum docents point out that during the construction of the Transcontinental Railroad, President Grant dispatched Vice President Schulyer Colfax to view the progress of the construction.  The people of the small mining community that had once been known as Alder Grove were so impressed that the Vice President of the United States had come to their town, they named the town after him!  And indeed, next to the Amtrak station, which contains a number of interesting shops, is a statue of Schulyer Colfax.    He was popular in California, having been in Congress (from Indiana) when California was admitted to the Union.  Colfax was a strong abolitionist, which also contributed to his popularity in free California.

After Colfax, the train continues up through the mountains toward the 7,000-ft.+ summit near Mount Judah (yes, Theodore again!). Then, the train begins to descend on the eastern slope through the Stanford Curve,  a back-switch with a terrific view of the Truckee river basin.

Schuyler Colfax, Vice President of the United States, 1869-1873

The next stop after Colfax is Truckee, California.  Truckee is also a picturesque Sierra village, though about ten times the size of Colfax.  Truckee is along side the Truckee river, which is Lake Tahoe’s sole outlet. Surrounding the area is the Truckee unit of the Tahoe National Forest.  West of Truckee, and visible from the Zephyr is Donner Lake, a beautiful freshwater  fishery and recreational area.  But the beauty is mitigated in some degree by the knowledge that the pass through the mountains here was the final resting place of many of  the “Donner Party” who met their demise in the winter of 1846-47. The Donner camp area is now both a National Historic Landmark and a California state park.

Donner Lake on eastern Sierra slope

At this point, it’s all  downhill for the Zephyr.   As we cross into Nevada, the docents point out the site of the first American train robbery. It occurred in 1870 at Verdi, Nevada. Today, Verdi is known for its largest hotel, Boomtown, where travelers still may be “robbed.”

The train makes three stops in Nevada: Reno, Winnemucca, and Elko–towns whose histories are intertwined with that of the Transcontinental Railroad.  It is said that railroad magnate Charles Crocker actually chose the names of Reno and Elko.

Elko County Courthouse

Winnemucca was named for Chief Winnemuca and his daughter, Sarah Winnemucca Hopkins, Paiute Indian leaders in Oregon and Nevada.  Theirs is an interesting and complex story that cannot be done justice here. However, for an introduction to their story, see the profile at AccessGenealogy.com.

Chief Winnemucca

Once we pass through Elko, it’s just a hop and a skip to Utah!

Gold Rush and Nevada Genealogical Resources

Next, as the Grand Genealogy Jouurney continues: Utah and the completion of the Transcontinental Railroad.

Photo Credits:

1. California Zephyr: Courtesy of  Trainweb.com (www.trainweb.com); photo at http://www.trainweb.org/amtrakpix/itrainpix/5/

2. Schuyler Colfax: Library of Congress

3. Donner Lake: California Department of Parks and Recreation (photo here)

4. Elko County Courthouse: U.S. Dept of Agriculture (photo at http://www.ers.usda.gov/briefing/population/photos/ShowCH.asp?FIPS=32007)

5. Chief Winnemucca: Courtesy Burns Paiute Tribal Council (photo here)

GeneaBlogie Grand Genealogy Journey – Day 1: Sacramento

Downtown Sacramento near the river

Sacramento has often been overlooked by visitors to Northern California; the same visitors are frequently mesmerized by the city some 90 miles away called San Francisco. Dissing Sacramento used to be a favorite pastime of the cognoscenti.   “It’s too hot!”  “It’s too dry!”  “It’s too flat!”  “It’s got no culture!” Even the California Supreme Court refuses to have its main office in Sacramento, which is after all, the capital of California.  The Court long ago chose San Francisco as its seat.

In fact, there would be little of anything that one likes about San Francisco had it not been for Sacramento.

On the site of present -day Sacramento, a settlement called Sutter’s Fort was founded in 1840 by Johann Augustus Sutter,  a former Swiss army officer with something of a history of bad business judgment.   In addition to the fort on the eastern bank of the Sacramento river, Sutter established a sawmill in the eastern foothills.  In January of 1848, one of Sutter’s business associates, John Marshall, found gold at the mill located in Coloma, California.  Despite Marshall’s and Sutter’s efforts let word out, news of the gold discovery spread rapidly.    Soon, several hundred thousand people were on their way to California.  Sacramento became the commercial outpost for the Gold Rush.

Originally known as New Helvetia, the city was planned and named by Sutter’s son.

John Sutter

Johann Augustus Sutter (1803-1880) called himself "John" after he came to America.

With the influx of immigrants from around the world, Sacramento was a booming center of commerce in the 1850s.  The Legislature decided in 1854 to make Sacramento the capital. [The Legislature had sat in Monterey, San Jose, and Benicia.  The apocryphal story is told that Sacramento civic boosters planned a party aboard a river boat for legislators in Benicia.  The boat was stocked with fine liquor and many prostitutes.  As the lawmakers got drunker, the boat moved upriver through the night to Sacramento.  When daylight came, the disgraced legislators were too embarrassed to return to Benicia and decided to stay in Sacramento!]

Sacramento played an important role in  changing the history of America.  A Connecticut engineer named Theodore Judah had come to California and built the Sacramento Valley railroad.  This  was the first railroad west of the Mississippi.  It ran from Sacramento’s Embarcadero to Folsom, a mining town on the western edge of the gold fields.  But Judah had bigger plans: he wanted to build a trans-continental railroad.  To finance his big plan, Judah sought venture capital in and around San Francisco.   There were no takers.  Judah then returned to Sacramento and found four local men, Leland Stanford, Charles Crocker, Collis Huntington, and Mark Hopkins, who were willing to take a risk on Judah’s plans.  The “Big Four” as they were known formed the Central Pacific Railroad Company to build Judah’s railroad over the Sierra–a plan thought foolhardy by more than just a few.

Theodore Judah

Theodore Judah (1826-1863) died before the Transcontinental railroad was completed.

The grand plan was that the Central Pacific Railroad would be built from the west and link to the Union Pacific Railroad being built from Omaha.  Two Acts of Congress and generous grants of government land helped the project along.  And as every schoolchild knows (or at least used to know), six years of work, much of it through the Civil War, culminated in March 1869 with the driving of the last spike to unite the lines at Promontory Summit, Utah.

The greatest technological feat of the nineteenth century wouldn’t have happened as it did but for the four Sacramento businessmen who believed in the project. The railroad changed American commerce forever.

Before the railroad was completed, Sacramento was the western terminus of the Pony Express.

5Mark Hopkins, Jr. Collis Huntington
Leland Stanford Charles Crocker

The “Big Four”: Mark Hopkins, Collis Huntington, Leland Stanford, Charles Crocker.  Stanford went on to serve as Governor and United States Senator from California, and founded Leland Stanford, Jr., University. Crocker later founded a bank which became Crocker Bank (later acquired by Wells Fargo).  It was a Crocker Bank branch in the Sacramento suburb of Carmichael (home of the GeneaBlogie  Bloggcast Center) in 1975 raided by Patty Hearst and the Symbionese Liberation Army, resulting in the killing of customer Myrna Opsahl.

Sacramento today is at the heart of a metropolitan area of about 2 million people.  Agriculture remains important in this region, but a slew of high-tech and service industry business has moved in to supplement state government employment.   Situated at the confluence of the American and Sacramento rivers, Sacramento is nicknamed “River City,” and is sometimes called The City of Trees because of its lush foliage.

So today we’re at the California State Railroad Museum in Old Sacramento where it all began. The Museum occupies the space on the Embarcadero where the Sacramento Valley line had begun.  It’s regarded as the most popular rail museum in North America.  Stay awhile; have a look around.

California Railroad Museum

California State Railroad Museum

Sacramento is not a town to forget its origins. Today, not far from the railroad museum, you can visit the renowned Crocker Art Museum, endowed by Judge Edwin B. Crocker and his wife Margaret.   Edwin Crocker was the older brother of Charles Crocker and was legal counsel to the Central Pacific Railroad.  “The Crocker” currently is undergoing a multi-million dollar arenovation that will triple the size of its exhibit space. The expanded museum is expected to open in October 2010.  The Crocker is at 216 O Street.

A few blocks from The Crocker is the Stanford Mansion, 800 N Street, a National Historic Landmark known officially as  Leland Stanford State Historic  Park.  Gov. Leland and Jane Stanford resided here.  Take a look around this place!Stanford Mansion

Although Gov. Stanford and two other  succeeding Governors lived here in the late 1800s, California now has no official Governor’s Mansion.  The Stanford house is California’s official reception center for visiting dignitaries.

When you’re finished there, you can go across the street to the California State Library, located at 900 N Street. The Library’s California History Room has many genealogical and family history research resources,

California State Library

including the 1852 California State census, a statewide index to the 1890, great register of voters (a very useful substitute for the 1890 census), city and county directories, going back as far as 1850, historical newspapers, and telephone directories dating from 1899.

A block away from the state library is California’s State Capitol.  Just inside the entrance of the capital, is the state Capitol Museum. This museum has replicas of the offices in the capitol building at the time it was completed in 1874 (after 14 years of construction and 2000% overbudget!).   The museum also has an extensive art collection and an architectural history collection.  And, of course, it has collections relevant to the legislative process in California.

California State Capitol Museum

The California State Archives, a division of the office of the secretary of state of California, is located a short walk away from the Capitol grounds at 1020 O Street.  The archives houses, among other things, County records from 1850 to 1987, including probate court files, wills, naturalizations, deeds, homesteads and vital records for 28 counties. You’ll also find here prison records from 1850-1979, military records from 1850-1942, and state mental hospital records from 1856-1934.

California State Archives

California State Archives at 1020 O Street

The California Secretary of State also operates the California Museum for History, Women and Arts, at the same location as the archives.  This museum known simply as The California Museum, has taken on a more diverse set of exhibits under the patronage of First Lady Maria Shriver.

Here at the California Museum, we’re about 10 blocks away from the Embarcadero.  We’ll head back north on 10th Street to I Street, and turn north.  At 8th and I Streets, is the Central Library, the largest location of the 27-branch  Sacramento Public Library. On the second floor of the library is the Sacramento Room, often described as the “Jewel in the Crown” of the Library. The Sacramento Room houses more than 21,000 artifacts of local history in a climate controlled environment.

sacramento room

The Central Library's Sacramento Room

Elsewhere in the library, you’ll find Ancestry Library Edition and the New England Ancestors database. The Central Library also has a collection of Sacramento city directories, a fair selection of genealogical books, and publications from hundreds of genealogical organizations around the country.

I’ll also point out that Sacramento has its LDS Regional Family History Center in the suburb of Arden-Arcade, and in other Family History Center in the suburb of Elk Grove.

So now it’s time to head for the train station.  Fortunately, from the Central Library, it’s just three blocks to the Amtrak Sacramento Valley station. We’ll be catching the California Zephyr to Salt Lake City.  See you on board!  Don’t be late!